I am learning that Sri Lanka is like a rough diamond. While things are developing and still a little rough around the edges, you only need to look around and there will be something amazing to experience. The Sri Lankan people are so kind and happy to share their culture. They are genuinely touched by your interest and go out of their way to help you any way they can. I can’t help but get over myself and get on with it! I have so many comforts and luxuries at home it doesn’t hurt me to live a little more simply for now and it certainly makes me more thankful. 

Day 5 – Sigriya

Another lesson in finding the silver lining, we arrived to a stifling hot and somewhat smelly villa. A broken air con, the heat and an already compromised plumbing system is a bad Combo. Supu to the rescue!! After a pleasant but rapid fire conversation we changed to a lovely sweet smelling perfectly cooled Villa. “Ok no problem!” (Supu’s favourite saying). We woke in the morning to find cheeky monkeys swinging from the roof tops and a stunning view of Lions rock.

An early start, to climb to the top of this world heritage site and ancient fortress built atop a huge rock, by the king. Sigirya demands your attention with its raw beauty. With over 1500 steep marble steps and some rough iron stairs to the top it’s no easy walk. Once at the top it’s quite amazing to see the ruins of where the palace was. It would have been grand, with swimming pools fed by incredibly engineered stone plumbing and a large room where the king would sit and look right over his kingdom. 

This time we opted not to have a guide and we just google anything we wanted to know. The kids did really well with the hike to the top, we were all sweating buckets and it was only 9am. As soon Miles started to flake we could make a quick exit back down. This suited us and it meant we were in control of how long we stayed, it was more pleasant for everyone. 

Next we visited a traditional village that I particularly loved. We travelled by the original transport, first bullock cart (very creaky, it groaned as we bumped along), then across the lake by boat (like two canoes with a platform between) to the village. Surrounded by rice paddies and veggie gardens, it is clear how wonderfully simple this life is, catching fish and eating what they grow. A lovely smiley village lady, showed us how to prepare the rice and spices and how to make coconut sambol. A delicious salad of fresh coconut, onion, tomato, chilli and salt. Sooooo delicious. A traditional lunch of curry and rice was then prepared for us. An assortment of vegetable currys, boiled fish (from the river), the coconut sambol and our new favourite salad of tomato, pineapple and onion with salt and pepper. 

Derek having been to India enough, started tucking into his lunch with his right hand…….the kids faces were horrified. I looked around nervously and saw Supu and our village lady nodding encouragingly at me. So I dropped my fork and got stuck in too. The kids had a go at it but they just couldn’t get into it. Too many years of being told not to play with food. Hahah!  A wonderful experience that has inspired me to take a cooking class while here in Sri Lanka.

Day 6 – Kandy 

A travel day to Kandy, along the way we stopped at a Spice Garden. Our guide shared with us the many ways Sri Lankan families use plants and herbs for medicinal purposes. These recipes are passed down through the generations and used instead of mainstream medications. I was in my element! 

We were then treated to a facial treatment and shoulder massage by students studying the craft. This was Miles’ first massage and Pearl’s second and they loved it. This only makes me concerned for the luxuries they are becoming accustom to. 

Kandy is a busy city, but very lush and green, with houses scattered all through the hillside. We headed to the local Red Cross hall for a display of traditional dance and fire walking! The costumes were beautifully colourful and the kids were in awe of the fire walkers. Towards the end of the show we had a blackout, which didn’t seem to bother the performers (me thinks this may be a regular occurance) the show went on and the audience cheered louder. 

Day 7 – Kandy

We had a few grumpy heads this morning, the busy days had caught up with us and we were missing a few comforts from home! For me coffee and a decent shower! After quick shop at a silk boutique, the girls were feeling great. Pearl bought herself a sari and enjoyed the adoring attention from the locals. 

In higher spirits we headed to the Temple of the tooth. Being a Sunday it was quite busy. We purchased a flower offering from a roadside stall, to place at the shrine of Buddha’s tooth. It’s easy to feel nervous and silly when exploring other customs, out of pure concern of accidentally causing offence. It was a lovely experience and we only received only warm smiles and plenty of comments to Pearl in her Sari, “a beautiful Sri Lankan girl”.

Day 8 – Nuwara Eliya

Monday morning peak hour happens even in The hill country. When we finally made it out of Kandy we ascended to the lush green rolling mountains of the tea district. Everytime I have cup of tea from now on I will be reminded of Lady’s carrying baskets full of fresh tea on their backs, rapidly picking leaves.

After many hair-pin turns and one stop for car sickness, we took a break at Ramboda Falls for a swim under the waterfall. A “short walk” or a hike up very steep stairs, was totally worth it for the magnificent fresh waterfall and pool which we had to ourselves in the rain. After a picking our way back down in the pouring rain we were all well deserving of a cup of tea.

Cue our next stop…….Blue leaf tea plantation! After and short and sweet demonstration of the tea production, we sat down to enjoy a cup of Sri Lanka’s finest. Still a little soggy with the temp being a cooler 16C in the mountains, we were all ready for a hot shower and some warm rice and curry.

Happy hour with a veiw of sigriya. 

“Ayubowan” Sinhala greeting

Fresh nutmeg with the maize flower attached.

Lovely stroll through the Botanical Gardens

Fresh tea